PLANT RAW MATERIAL EXTRACTS AS COMPONENTS OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS AND FORMULATIONS FOR TOPICAL ADMINISTRATION: THE PRODUCT RANGE, THE PRODUCTION CHARACTERISTICS (REVIEW)

In contemporary pharmaceutical practice extracts are used as a separate cosmetic product and as an intermediate for external medicinal forms (ointments, gels, liniments) and cosmetic forms. Their range is highly diverse.

The aim is an overview of the scientific and technical information concerning plant  raw materials extracts using in the external drug and cosmetic products.

Methods. To describe the range of extracts proposed for external use the analysis of the proposals of Russian and foreign producers submitted their official websites and online trading platforms was used. The specificity of extraction of biologically active substances of plant extracting agents: water, ethyl alcohol, glycols, vegetable oils, carbon dioxide used to obtain extracts was described on the basis of available scientific literature (eLIBRARY, PubMed, Cyberleninca, Google Books).

Results. Examples of external drugs and cosmetic products based on plant raw materials extracts from a range of pharmaceutical organizations are given. It was found that from the extracting solvent used the range is presented by hydrophilic, such as glycol (propylene glycol, glycerin), water, alcoholic extracts; lipophilic (oil, CO2-extracts), and two-phase (caprylic/caprate triglyceride/water extracts). The main features of the extracting solvent used for this category of extracts: the specifics of the use in cosmetics (the skin specific effect), in particular selectivity to groups of biologically active plant substances, microbiological purity, are noted. Results of research data on the study of the prospects for the use of cosmetic ingredients – silicones, caprylic/ capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate both solvents. The extraction techniques: classical (maceration, percolation) and intensified (electro-plasma dynamic extraction, vacuum extraction circulation, CO2 supercritical extraction) used in industry to produce cosmetic extracts are described.

Conclusion: in this way, the range of extracts for use in exterior cosmetics is very diverse and is characterized by the use of different solvents, performing the function of the components in cosmetics, and extraction methods.

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